A Day Ride to the Kettle Moraine State Forest

Once the calendar gets to within a couple of weeks of Halloween, the riding season in northeast Wisconsin is nearing its end. Fortunately, the motorcycle gods smiled on us with 70 degree temperatures and bright sunshine last week.While this time of year means a lot of yard work, and family responsibilities continue year round, I did manage to get out for some beautiful fall riding.

My work as a part time employee at Road America was complete in August and I was last at the track for the Sports Car Vintage Racing Association weekend in September. But recently I noticed on someone's Twitter account that the track owners were making some improvements, so a ride down there was in order. The track is located near the Kettle Moraine State Forest and that is always a great area in which to ride.

When I work at Road America I normally ride down the back roads, so on this day I chose Highway 57. There was a bit more truck and farm vehicle traffic than I expected, but it was still an enjoyable ride. The small towns of Hilbert, Chilton, New Holstein and Kiel don't change much, but there is a big addition to the Sargento Cheese Company being built in Hilbert.

Just beyond New Holstein I turned south on County Road A. It winds through some hilly farm country and past a picturesque white church. I have been on quite a few of Wisconsin's Rustic Roads this summer and found myself wondering why this one had not received that designation.

Entering the resort and racing town of Elkhart Lake, I cruised past the newly opened Throttle Stop. Billed as a "car and cycle concierge", they are capable of hot rodding or restyling your car or bike in addition to offering consignment sales, storage, and detailing. The Throttle Stop, along with the recently built Motorsports Villas on the south end of town, have made Elkhart Lake even more of a mecca for the well-heeled car owner and racing fan.

As I entered the Road America facility it was apparent that it was a quiet day. Often there are car clubs or driving schools using the track, but today there were only the sounds of construction equipment and riding lawn mowers. After a brief conversation with the gate guard and showing him my employee identification card, I was waved through. At present the road from the tunnel up to the paddock area is being repaved and the motorplex track was resurfaced earlier this fall. I stopped for a snack and a picture in the Carousel before continuing south on 67.

The trail leading to the inside of Canada Corner is a popular viewing area.

About six miles south of Elkhart Lake is Plymouth. This is the home of Sargento Cheese and a nicely kept downtown area. Highway 67 leads into the Kettle Moraine State Forest. The name is drawn from the kettles and moraines formed by the receding glaciers. It makes for some great riding and spectacular views.

The view from Parnell fire tower in Sheboygan County

A little south of Plymouth the highway was closed due to bridge construction. By chance, the detour led past the Parnell Fire Tower. I had not heard of it, but took the opportunity to climb it. It was a clear day and the fall colors were almost in full swing.

The weather had warmed more than I had expected, and I felt it after my hike up the tower. I took the liner out of my Olympia AST jacket and stowed it in the pannier of my GSA. After an apple (a real apple) break I was on my way again.

The detour led me back to Highway 67 and I continued south to Highway 45. There I turned back north toward Fond du Lac. Lunch was at the McDonald's on Highway 23 and then I rode Interstate 41 back up to Green Bay. I was thankful for the great weather and for having the time to enjoy it.

Riding the Lake Michigan Shoreline

The end of the riding season in Wisconsin is near and I thought a ride up to the tip of Door County was in order. The weather on Sunday was forecast to be sunny and in the mid-70's, so I made plans to spend the afternoon on the peninsula. Those plans changed on Saturday morning when my wife met a friend at the local farmer's market who said she was going to some sort of pumpkin fest in Egg Harbor on Sunday.

Not wishing to compete for highway space with a multitude of minivans, crossovers and sport utility vehicles, I decide to ride only as far north as Sturgeon Bay. As I cruised north of Green Bay on Highway 57 I noticed the sign for Wequiock Falls County Park. I had not stopped there for years and wanted to take a look. The falls are just as I remembered and the county has moved the Jean Nicolet statue to the park. He is said to be the first European to set foot in northeast Wisconsin.

Jean Nicolet 

The traffic was not too heavy on the four lane heading up into the Door Peninsula. I was thankful for the fairing on my Lowrider S as the air temperature dropped nearer to Lake Michigan. Highways 42 and 57 meet just south of Sturgeon Bay and that's where I turned back to the south. Highway 42 follows the Lake Michigan shoreline pretty closely and there are many great views.

My next stop was the Ahnapee River dam at Forestville. There is a small park and boat landing there. There were no boat trailers there on Sunday but there was a family fishing off of the dock. Below the dam were quite a few people fly fishing for trout and salmon. I had brought along a snack and enjoyed it before mounting the big Harley Davidson and  continuing south.

Ahnapee River in Kewaunee County

The wind was out of the south and I was glad I had dressed warmly. The shoreline in Kewaunee County is marked by two cities that are about ten miles apart. Algoma is the northernmost and is known for, among other things, the Von Stiehl Winery. Von Stiehl has been in Algoma since 1967 and advertises itself as "Wisconsin's Oldest Licensed Winery". Bearcat's fresh fish is also pretty well known and hearkens back to the days when Algoma was a commercial fishing community. There is still a fishing industrty in the town, but it is now mostly sport fishing charters. There is a picturesque wayside south of Algoma and I stopped there to enjoy the lake view.

Lake Michigan south of Algoma

Back on the bike I was soon riding past the recently shuttered nuclear plant. The plant's owners could not justify keeping it open and it was an economic blow to the county when they announced the closing several years ago. There is still a skeleton crew employed maintaining the facility and doing what is necessary to safeguard the nuclear materials left there. The place does not have a welcoming appearance, but I stopped to take a couple of pictures.

The small town of Kewaunee is also a fishing community. The big pier is known for salmon and trout fishing in season and there are also charters available. The little community has a pretty good restaurant named Uncorked. I was there for dinner a few weeks ago. The prices are higher than I expected, but the menu is one you won't find anywhere else in the area.

The highway south of Kewaunee veers away from the Lake as it goes toward Two Rivers and Manitowoc. A detour led me a little farther west before taking me back into "Trivers", as it is called by the locals. Fortunately for me there was a Kwik Trip right on my route and I filled up the tank. The triple chocolate doughnut was calling me, but I was planning on a McDonald's stop soon.

Boats for sale in Two Rivers

I cruised through Two Rivers and down into the city of Manitowoc. It was time to start for home, so I followed the signs for Interstate 43. Once on the slab I set the cruise control at 70 and rode north. There is a McDonald's restaurant at the Denmark exit, so I stopped there for a late lunch.

Not knowing if this would be my last ride for the season or not, I enjoyed the last few miles home. It is a long winter here so I tried to capture the sights, smells and sounds that make motorcycling such an enjoyable experience.

As it turned out, I got out for one more ride before I decided to put the bike away for the winter. Yesterday I put the Sta Bil in the tank, attached the Battery Tender and put the cover on the bike.

Riding Fourteen Rustic Roads in Southeast Wisconsin

The calendar said that autumn had begun four days ago, but it was almost ninety degrees in southeast Wisconsin in late September. I had just ridden my sixth Rustic Road of the day and was looking forward to reaching my quarters for the night when the familiar brown and gold Rustic Road sign appeared. A quick check of my map and guidebook showed that I had stumbled upon one of the two designated Rustic Roads in Rock County. After a short and pleasant out and back ride on RR 35 I was off to the Super 8 in Whitewater, Wisconsin.

On the north end of Rustic Road 35

 My ride had begun at 7:00 am when I pulled out of the driveway in Green Bay. The goal was to ride thirteen Rustic Roads spread over six counties in southeast Wisconsin over the next two days. It would be a couple of hours before I reached the first road in Columbia County, so I settled in to enjoy the ride.

I got up to speed among the morning commuters on Interstate 41 south. The big BMW allowed me to travel comfortably with the traffic and I got off the slab at WIS 26 just south of Oshkosh. At Waupun, I went west on WIS 68. It leads through the little town of Fox Lake. I noticed that an old friend from my days in the Wisconsin National Guard had a real estate office there, so I stopped in for a visit. It was great to catch up with him, but soon it was time to get back on the road.

WIS 33 traverses the state in an east-west direction and it led me to Columbia County and my first three Rustic Roads of the day. The first one, Rustic Road 69, travels along the Portage Canal and leads up to the Indian Agency House. Built in 1832, it is open for tours on certain days of the week. Back on 33, I crossed the mighty Wisconsin River and turned onto RR 49. This road parallels the big river and travels through the Aldo Leopold Reserve.

The Indian Agency House on Rustic Road 69

My next road was still in Columbia County, but it was 20 miles south, near Lodi. By the time I got there it was after noon, so it was time to find some lunch and fuel. I had passed up a few of my beloved Kwik Trips, so I settled for a Mobil/A & W combination in Lodi. It turned out to be a good stop and the Wi Fi was appreciated.

I found RR 110 just northwest of Lodi and had three roads in the hopper as I cruised WIS 60 back to Interstate 39/90/94 south. Dane County holds three Rustic Roads and they were next on the list. The first is number 96 just south of Cottage Grove. Nora Road winds through some typical Wisconsin farmland and woods. The next two, Rustic Roads 19 and 20, are to the southeast of the state capital of Madison. RR 20 skirts Lake Kegonsa and includes a historic one lane bridge over the Yahara River.

One lane bridge over the Yahara

Number 19 leads north off of County B on Lalor Road and ends near Goodland Park on Lake Wabesa. I stopped and enjoyed the peacefulness of the deserted park before mounting up and continuing on.

View of Lake Wabesa from Goodland Park

Following my serendipitous capture of Rustic Road 35 I called it a day. Once I was checked into the hotel I took a walk around the little town of Whitewater. It is home to the University of Wisconsin-Whitewater, but does not really seem to have the feel of a "college town". Getting back to my room, I mapped out my ride for the next day.

A cold front came through overnight and it was noticeably cooler on the bike in the morning. There are three Rustic Roads in Jefferson County and they were first on the list for the day. The first two, 87 and 88, were easy to find and I had ridden them both before 8:30 am. They took me through farmlands, woods, and past well-kept cemeteries. Finding number 84 along the Bark River in Fort Atkinson was a bit more difficult, but it was worth it. Halfway through the ride there is an artesian drinking fountain.

Artesian drinking fountain midway on Rustic Road 84

I needed to go east to Waukesha County, but a bridge was out on WIS 106. Following the detour, I found myself right back at the Super 8 in Whitewater. The detour led me to WIS 59, and I followed it through Palmyra and into Waukesha County. Turning north on WIS 67, I looked for Piper Road. Turning right on Piper I soon saw the sign for Rustic Road 86. It follows Waterville Road through the Southern Unit of the Kettle Moraine State Forest. Its north end is at US 18 and I rode 18 west into the little town of Dousman.

My hope was to find a Kwik Trip, but there was none to be found. I fueled up at the Mobil station and bought a big chocolate muffin and coffee to get me through to lunch. WIS 67 intersects with US 18 in Dousman, and I went north on 67 in search of Rustic Road 10. This area is all part of the Kettle Moraine, so even the roads between the Rustic Roads are a joy to ride. The highway here is particularly scenic and winds over and through some beautiful topography.

Number 10 passes near the famous Pabst Farms and a couple of small lakes. The area near the road is still a little rustic, but the tentacles of suburbia are not far away. Following Pabst Farm Boulevard led me to Delafield, home of St. John's Northwestern Military Academy. Reaching WIS 83 on the east side of Delafield, I went north into Washington County.

The highway is also known as Kettle Moraine Scenic Drive, and it lived up to its name. Rustic Road 33 can be found north of the intersection of 83 and County Q. RR 33 is unique in that it is comprised of a myriad of Irish heritage named roads that you cannot ride in a linear fashion.

Holy Hill National Shrine of Mary, Help of Christians

It is primarily an agricultural area, but there are some pretty impressive homes along the road. There is also a good view of the steeples on the Holy Hill National Shrine of Mary, which is located on the highest point in southeast Wisconsin. At the corner of County K and County Q I stopped by St Teresa of Calcutta Catholic Church. It was a pretty flat piece of land in this hilly county and a nice place to take a quiet break.

St. Teresa of Calcutta in Washington County

The last road I had on the list was in far northeastern Washington County. I had to ride Interstate 41 north to get there and it was time for lunch. The McDonald's in Richfield was calling me, so I stopped there for a Big Mac Meal and the use of the Wi Fi. The day was turning colder as I was now closer to Lake Michigan, but my Olympia AST 2 jacket kept me comfortable on the bike.

Rustic Road 52 was the only one I rode over the two days that had any gravel. It coursed through some farmland and some farm houses that dated to the 1800's. Right after the Rustic Road ends, on Blue Goose Road, I passed a fenced in area that is designated as the University of Wisconsin Milwaukee Field Station. It abuts the Cedarburg Bog and supports research, education, and public outreach. As a proud UWM Panther, I stopped to have a quick look around.

Entrance to UWM Field Station

Blue Goose Road led me north to WIS 33 and I realized that my first Rustic Roads the day before had intersected 33 just a few miles to the west. It was time to go home, so I rode east to Interstate 43 and eased into the late afternoon traffic. Over the next 80 miles I thought about all I had seen over the two days. Farmlands, woods, big and small rivers, lakes, bogs, cemeteries and churches all combined to make the trip one to cherish.